Cipta, di mana?

Not even 30 before 30 – So What?

Hey, it’s me again. I hope you’re doing well wherever you’re reading. I just wanted to give you some news about what’s going on.

Remember when I first started this blog? I had this vivid dream in my head that by the time I reach 30, I’d have visited all the provinces in Indonesia. Guess what? I think I’m not going to make it. I have been to the 28 provinces already – 6 more left of course, yet as what it seems I no longer have much time as my 30th birthday is approaching very soon. I still want to go to the rest of the provinces I have never been to though, but instead of giving myself a strict timeline, I will just go with the flow.

So, the last time I travel to a new province is none other than the amazing West Papua. Thanks to Nadya who accompanied me in this trip. I recall that one frantic flight past mid-night from Terminal 3 Soekarno-Hatta and every other moments waiting to be unfolded as we set foot in the province. I still can remember each and every one of them, clearly – though it has been 40 weeks ago.

Sorong, the largest city of West Papua, is located literally at the lore of the Bird’s Head Peninsula of Papua. Most people fly to this city to go to Raja Ampat. Me and my friend was no exception. We flew the earliest flight we could possibly find so we could catch the ferry to Waisai, the gate to the most renowned tourism destination of East Indonesia; Raja Ampat.

It took us around 2 hour to embark for Waisai, Raja Ampat from Pelabuhan Rakyat in Sorong. We stayed in this very nice sea-facing bungalow in Waisai where the best spots for island hopping were just a few miles away – Star Lagoon, Batu Pensil, Piaynemo, to the best natural pool I’ve ever been to, Kali Biru. Sadly we didn’t have the luxury to explore the southern part of Raja Ampat (Wayag and Misool), in which I bet would have been even more incredible to do. Two days – one night in Raja Ampat and two days – one night in Sorong was too short for the trip one could ever imagine.

The tranquility from the over-the-sea terrace.

Although it was my first time to set foot on Papuan soil, the view, and the atmosphere in general seemed very familiar to me. And it hits me… As I have been to many other amazing destinations in this country, most of them were taken place so close to one another…. Did I go to Raja Ampat at that time because I needed to? – as in, you know, going to a new place is always good for your soul as you’ve been dealing with the harsh life in Ibu Kota *rolling my eyes. Or did I fly to Raja Ampat, begging my dear friend to join me, rushing around and trying to fit everything in because I need to go to all the provinces in Indonesia, for God’s sake, before I reach 30? HAHAHA. Well, I know right? There was so much pressure, here and there.

I realized, I really don’t need to rush things. Some things in life aren’t meant to be scheduled whatsoever. When it happened, it just happened. Career, relationships, your wishlist to the most amazing places in the world… So, I guess I’m slowing myself down a little bit. One could see how far they have come and how far they could have gone by slowing down, isn’t it?

Yes, there is this particular, uncanny question that I should have asked myself to begin with. How are you doing? What’s been going on in your life, Ciptadi? Why do you just appear here again in all of a sudden? What’s happening with this slowing down?

Before I answer that one question with so many follow ups, I want you to keep it in mind that I still managed to enjoy the trip to Raja Ampat. It was still one of the most amazing trips I’ve ever taken. So, in honor to that crazy idea that I mentioned before, let me raise my glass, show some respect to my old self, with Papua Barat being the last province I’ve visited in 30 years living on this planet. Here’s to the more realistic, more calm, more stoic version of myself. Most importantly to more amazing trips ahead, no matter how old I am going to be, lol. Enjoy more pictures I took from the Raja Ampat trip! 🙂

The long pier that connects the bungalows to the resort’s restaurant.

Exploring the true beauty of Raja Ampat.

Here’s the thing. So many things have happened to me these past few months. I’ve excelled in my career, my circle got smaller, yet stronger than ever, I think I have lived my life the way I always wanted ever since I moved to Jakarta. However, I realized, none of them were quite fulfilling. They did at first, but they faded away. So, long story short, I gave up everything in my possession, in Jakarta, to come back home. I want to clear my mind. I don’t know for how long. But, what I do know now, I want to be with my family for as long as I could.

I’m currently still working for my company I’ve been working for these past 9 months, but I’m resigning very soon. I have my replacement already, and the transition has been going really well. I have more spare time to do whatever I want. I spend more and more time with my family. I witnessed my sister’s third child being born. I run a few businesses with a good friend and my sister. I live a humble life in my hometown, with some exploration with a friend to an untouched rural area around the town on the weekend. I breathe fresh air and enjoy jaw-dropping spectacles from my hometown that I have been taking for granted. I have more time to watch heart-warming movies, and inspiring docu-series, to listen to any good songs that just came out, to read books and good articles on the internet, all without any worry or distress. And first and foremost, more time to think clearly about my life. About what’s next… About what I could have done differently while remain being that one enthusiastic and unapologetic dreamer as I have always been.

I mean, it’s alright if we are being so determined about what we are going to achieve in the next 5-10 years, about being so passionate of getting ourselves onto the next one, and the next one right coming in, all so damn quick and fast-paced. But, don’t forget to live, slow down a bit, be there for those who matter to us the most. Take a chance on love, quit whatever unfulfilling from our life.

Too many people trying to hustle and grind when what they really need to do is ground themselves. Live in the moment. Our time in this world is very limited. So, we make sure we live our life to the absolute fullest.

So… 28 provinces and is 30 already… ¿Por qué no?

West Papua, checked! ✔️

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

The Intentionally Sentimentalized North Sumatera

Around 75,000 years ago, an ancient volcano situated in the Barisan Mountains of Northern Sumatera erupted, expelling an estimated 2,800 cubic KM of ash and lava, and caused nearly half of the living species on Earth killed and vanished. Nearly 60% of human population reduced following the volcanic eruption. That event is considered by many scientists to be the greatest volcanic eruption in human history, and some maintain that it decreased the average global temperature by 3 to 3,5 degrees Celsius and have triggered an ice age.

The remnants of the volcano’s caldera contain present-day Lake Toba.

The eruption left a beautiful landscape too.

Located in the middle of the northern part of Sumatera, with a surface elevation of about 900 M, the lake is about 100 KM long, 30 KM wide, and up to 505 M deep, making it the largest lake in Southeast Asia. In its center, stretched an island almost the size of Singapore; Samosir, the fifth largest lake island in the world.

By taking into account the fact that we today are the descendants of the 40% of human population that survived the catastrophe, how are we, Indonesians, supposed to describe our relation with Lake Toba?

I know it sounds like I’m exaggerating, but back then, long after I knew I would be traveling around the country, I would have finished the Sumatera chapter right across the Mighty Toba. It felt like it’s the only way that will make perfect sense. I couldn’t find any better way.

Beautiful panoramic views from many vantage points.

The amount of excitement and sentiment on gracefully finishing the Sumatera chapter could be traced back to 2013 when I first set foot on Sumateran soil.

At that time, I was in my third year of college, I was a part of this student union in my uni that sent me and my friends off to Padang for a national conference. It was relatively a short trip to explore the beauty of West Sumatera. I didn’t know that the trip would be more than just a dutiful business from the organization I was in, nor did I know that it would be the start to my long and very much loved exploration on the island. The 1 out of 10.

March 2017, I was setlling down with my career, and I was so naive and hopeful about the future that I thought of immersing myself in the urban life of the capital city as a form of survival; hustling at work, consuming a lot of pop culture, and trying to find meaning in traveling.

One day during that month, I hopped on a passenger ship, crossing the Sunda strait to Lampung that I found very feminist with its Siger, the traditional customary hat for brides in Lampung’s culture on almost every corner of the province. Not long after that I flew to South Sumatera for Palembang, the oldest city in Indonesia.

Around November 2017, soon when I’ve had enough money, I flew back to Suvarnadwipa. This time around I tried to explore Jambi out of my curiosity. Turned out it has one of the most fun capital cities in the country. The trip extended to Bengkulu that marked half way across the map of Sumatera.

At the beginning of February 2018, I crossed the sea to Riau Islands, the luckiest province as it borders with Singapore. And during Christmas in the same year, the very long-awaited trip to Aceh for Weh Island has taken place. It has become one of the most memorable trips I’ve ever taken, not only because it was the outermost I’ve ever got exploring this country, but also because a series of events that made me realize about things, especially at what point traveling is important and beneficial for my life. Traveling might not always fun, it might not always contain happiness, sunny and cheerful day, seamless transit, satisfying services from our hotel and fulfilling meals, sometimes it contains discomfort and upsetting experiences, and a whole lot more of unexpected and troublesome events. During traveling, we might face problems, a lot of them, but no matter what we could always find ways to solve those problems. And that’s what keeps me going.

Bangka Belitung has then been visited later on, in April 2019, 4 months after my last trip to the island. The province that became so popular because of Laskar Pelangi. In February 2020 right before the pandemic started, I went to Riau, the one that I had the least interest to but I ended up enjoying so much.

In the same month, a year later, I completed the journey, the Sumatera chapter by exploring North Sumatera, crossing and witnessing the beauty of Lake Toba and its surroundings. I waited for 7 years to have this finished and I did. How the hell am I supposed to describe my relation with Lake Toba? Is it even a real question? My ancestors might get killed by the time the super-volcano erupted and thus I wouldn’t be born, and I’ve waited long enough for the day I could finally say, “I’ve been to all the provinces in Sumatera, the sixth largest island in the world, the island with most provinces in Indonesia.” I started it in Padang, West Sumatera unsure and unaware that it would lead me to a life-changing journey in my life. And the way I have it all completed is by embracing my own existence, setting up goals and be mindful of my intentions right across the Mighty Toba.

Changing scenery, the same feeling of awe.

I remember that beautiful day I was smiling from ear to ear for making it to the last province on the island. As far as the eye can see, stretched out the Lake Toba, I was so stunned, and I found it difficult to act normal just like the other passengers on the ship as we were crossing the lake to the resort. I might have it sentimentalized in purpose, even long before I finally set foot in North Sumatera.

I fixed my sitting position and took some pictures of the breathtaking scenery in front of me, and then some more till we got off the ship. Little did anyone else on the ship know, I was chanting and praying the entire trip inside my head, paying homage to the world’s greatest volcanic eruption that ever happened.

North Sumatera, checked! ✔️

Sumatera Chapter (10/10), checked! ✔️

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

Breathtaking view from Bukit Tarabunga, Balige.

Just one of the coin hunters in Lake Toba.

Didn’t know they have fresh water beach.

Falling for the Understated Charm and Distinctive Beauty of West Nusa Tenggara

To the east of Lesser Sunda Islands, the coast of West Nusa Tenggara seems to stretch to infinity. While the whole province boasts over 2,333 KM of coastline, you might start to think that the shore contains the entirety of that figure. The pristine wilderness there scattered with mountains and hills, long stretches of white sand beaches, an abundance of nature trails, and traditional villages, gives an impression of endlessness. Much like its neighboring provinces; East Nusa Tenggara and Bali, West Nusa Tenggara has very beautiful scenery only with the influence of Islam. Yet, due to the geographical proximity of the three provinces, the charm of West Nusa Tenggara is often times being overshadowed and understated.

Off to the northwest of Lombok island, an archipelago of three small islands or so called the Gili island triplets is one of the most popular destinations of the province. Gili Trawangan, the farthest island of the three and the closest to Bali, is often packed with more tourists. Many are fond of the idea of quieter and more secluded island than Bali yet still maintaining the tropical island life and the good summer vibe. It’s the perfect place for snorkeling/diving, relaxing and enjoying the beach, hanging out at the bars, partying all night. But, not exactly when I came to the island a few months back.

Like many tourist destinations in the country, the pandemic hits the island very hard. Many shops and restaurants were closed due to significant decrease in tourist traffic. Locals were forced to find another job like farming and fishing, even some had to leave the island and move to the city. And again, I found myself as the only guest at the hotel. The situation has been very concerning indeed, but I didn’t know how to feel exactly since that was my first time in the province. I had no expectations.

I spent a night in Gili Trawangan at this very nice hotel, LUMI, locatded on the west coast of the island. The hotel provides seaside cabin and cottage, meticulously designed on the premise of green lifestyle. It extends the concept of green tourism in Gili Trawangan that I liked about the most.

Many people would argue, going to Gili Trawangan during pandemic is not a good idea. Yes, I might missed the opportunity to experience little Bali with its fun nightlife, yet I was even more interested with the tranquility and calmness the island had to offer me when it’s losing most of its tourist. I was more intrigued to be able to have a heart-to-heart with the locals and listen to their stories about preseverance during this hard time. I was more grateful to have the opportunity to enjoy the island’s beauty, from the land and the sea, in quieter and more alluring kind of way.

Imagine calmness and tranquility like this.

On the mainland of Lombok, I chose to stay at the hotel on hight street of Senggigi. At the front, the popular Senggigi beach, stretched out along several kilometers to the north of the capital, Mataram. The area used to be the main tourist attraction on the island before Kuta Lombok and Gili Islands gain their popularity.

Two nights staying in Lombok gave me clearer understanding why West Nusa Tenggara has often hyped to be called the next Bali while one can comfortably compare it with Komodo Island and Sumba of the East Nusa Tenggara. However, I’m full confident that my experience of riding from Senggigi to Kuta and surroundings, letting myself be immersed in the beautiful spectacle during the journey was nowhere else to be found. The sun was scorching hot by the time I crossed the sea to the mainland of Lombok before it began to rain very heavily as I rode halfway to Mataram. I stopped at a small grocery store on the side of the road and bought a bottle of water. The owner warmly let me sit on the front of the store so I could take as much time as I need before continuing my journey.

Chasing sunset in Bukit Merese was high on my list of things to do while in Lombok and I was very lucky that I could reach that place right before the sun was down at that day as it took me almost 2 hour drive from Senggigi to get there. As I began to walk on top of the hill, I saw several groups of people gathered around, talking, enjoying the view and taking pictures, some were being approached by Lombok traditional woven fabric sellers, some were playing with wild dogs. The hill offered fantastic coastal views. Around every corner and over every peak I found stunning beaches and turquoise-colored reefs. The sunset was just perfect. Suddenly, a girl around my age who later told me that she was also from Jakarta, approached me nicely, and asked to take a picture with me. She was also on her solo trip and she wanted me to pretend to be her date or something on the picture, so it won’t be too sad for her if her friends happen to know the details about her trip to Lombok. At least, there was this guy accompanying her. Well, that’s what makes it sad. I giggled on the inside.

Touring the Sasak village, Sade was even more fun. The tour began with a guide explaining the history about Sasak people and their traditions. Then I stumbled upon a house, a women around 100-year old sitting and selling me an ethnic piece of Lombok. She spoke in a language I couldn’t understand. And then there is this “love tree” in the village, a landmark where couples will meet at night before they try to elope, in which later I found that elope with someone was part of traditional wedding custom back then in Lombok.

Walking down the beach with buffalos in Selong Belanak beach was something I didn’t expect to be the most delightful highlight of my Lombok trip. I mean, where else can you find a group of buffalos crossing a beach in Indonesia? The beach has two diferrent types of wave. The west side beach has big waves and is ideal for surfing. Meanwhile, the beach on the other part has relatively calm waves because it’s surrounded by a bay and much suiatable for family tourism.

These all I believe were blessings I couldn’t find in any other place on top of my Gili experience.

Be it then, now during pandemic or some time yet to come, no matter how much more developed Bali and East Nusa Tenggara as tourist destination are going to be; West Nusa Tenggara, is most assuredly and will always be a timeless, distinctive beauty.

West Nusa Tenggara, checked!

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

She’s the star of the village. Hands down.

An incredible view of Selong Belanak beach.

The renowned Gili Meno’s underwater statues.

Bali: Unshaken in the Midst of the Pandemic

It has been 6 years since the last time I went to Bali. It was in 2014 when I got the chance to experience Nyepi for the very first time. I’ve been there a couple of times before, mostly for its beaches and holiday vibes, but spending Nyepi in Bali is second to none. It was probably the time when I realized how unique the Balinese culture really is. And for me, that’s exactly why Bali has a special place in my heart. It just has so much more to offer besides its busy streets of Legian, Kuta, and Seminyak and its vibrant nightlife and beach clubs.

Been waiting for so long to explore the island again.

Bali, a land with volcanoes and rivers flowing out onto beautiful beaches and cerulean blue seas. An island with a fair number of breathtaking waterfalls, scenic undulating rice terraces, and stunning cliffs. Yet, I would say what makes it so special is the romance between its people and their rice fields, their rivers, their prayers, their crafted arts, and their kites that they are playing on a sunny afternoon.

The harmonious interaction of man and Mother Nature opens the eyes and the mind to the essence of Bali like nothing and nowhere else. It is like a collection of poems about light, landscape, beauty, art, and spiritualism.

It’s all thanks to the Hinduism teachings. Tri Hita Karana, a traditional philosophy of life in Bali which roughly translates to the “three causes of well-being”; God, people and nature. The belief of many Balinese that keeps the social fabric intact and harmonious with nature. Any building cannot be taller than a coconut tree, many of the religious rituals involve prayers to the Gods in the mountains and the seas. And no matter how far you would go, exploring the island, you would always find the place of worship easily. On the busy streets, on the secluded beaches, up and down the steepest hills.

To be able to perform the religious ritual even on top of the hills.

It never crossed my mind that I would return to Bali during this pandemic. I was so heartbroken witnessing how badly affected the tourism in Bali, yet, somehow I was so grateful that I’ve got the chance to witness the Balinese culture even closer as I was able to not only spend a few days, or a week there, but a month or so.

A morning in quieter Bali, or indeed at any time, gives me an understanding of how blessed the people in Bali and the people who had the audacity to leave their lives in other cities/countries behind and choose to live on the island really are.

A family walking down the lane to Pura on Galungan.

I learned a thing or two, about Balinese Hinduism, about the Guardians of the 9 directions. The wise teachings and the myths that soothe the mind and soul. About symbols and manifestation like canang sari offerings and incense sticks, the statues of the Gods and Deities and the penjor bamboo poles during Galungan and Kuningan.

I learned a few things about Bali’s past history, about its close ties with Java and Lombok, about a small kingdom in the East and its rise and decline over the course of centuries.

I figured out how modern Balinese people, especially the young people, are very open to modernism and at the same time are very proud of their own culture. I also had a chance to explore more secluded places on the island, in 7 regencies; Badung, Bangli, Buleleng, Gianyar, Tabanan, Karangasem, as well as Klungkung for Nusa Penida. Truly an experience I’ll never forget.

The pandemic, even though how awful its impact on the economy, and most importantly on the tourism industry, Bali is still a bliss. It didn’t change even a tiny bit. Well, it does, but the incomparable beauty of Bali doesn’t just disappear.

Because again, the enchanting beauty of Bali actually lies in the harmony between its beautiful landscape and its resident, not between its tourists and the tangerine sunsets, relished in some fancy beach clubs, nor between the pleasure seekers and its long, vibrant, nightlife. Still, I wish Bali and every place in the world that rely so much on tourism, a speedy recovery.

Beautiful spectacle of the island’s tallest volcano, Mount Agung.

Visiting Taman Ujung Karangasem, and it was worth it.

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan in your 50K bank note.

Kanto Lampo, one of the most delightful waterfall trips in Bali.

Just one out of many scenic routes in Nusa Penida.

The most instagenic treehouse on the island.

Finally, meeting Mr. T-Rex of Nusa Penida.

Arriving in Crystal Bay right when the sun was down.

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

Traveling to Togean Islands During Pandemic: The Most Eye-Opening Travel Experience in 2020?

It’s August 2020 already. 4 months to go before the end of the year, and if we think that 2020 could get any better as its end is approaching… we were wrong. Totally. Just the first week of August, the world was shocked by the explosion in Beirut, Lebanon, causing at least 180 deaths, 6,000 injuries, US$10–15 billion in property damage, and 300,000 people have been rendered homeless. 2020 won’t be scarier without mentioning the ongoing series of protests and civil unrest in the US triggered by the death of George Floyd at the hands of white police officer. Many of us are wondering if this year can get any worse, following the COVID-19 cases that keep rising in Indonesia, makes it one of the worst-hits in Southeast Asia. Could this year be the year of hopelessness? The year where so many bad things have happened. Is that what we want to remember it for?

It was a warm, silent night on my little hometown, when something so peculiar suddenly crossed my mind. How if I have the power to turn all this around? How if I’m given a chance to do something really fun and it will stick with me forever, so all I can think about 2020 is not entirely frightening. “What would it be? Should I travel? To where?”

I did some research related to when and where would be the best time and place to travel during pandemic. First of all, am I allowed to travel in the nearest future? If yes, what are the things that I need to prepare. Second of all, of course it should be in Indonesia and it shouldn’t be too much of a hassle if I depart from my hometown and shouldn’t be that costly. Also, if the place is somewhere outside of the province (North Sulawesi), the COVID-19 case should be as lower as possible. So, definitely not South Sulawesi. I was thinking of either Bunaken and surrounding islands, or anywhere exciting in Central Sulawesi (Central Sulawesi is amongst the provinces with the least confirmed COVID-19 cases).

The next day I called some trip planners to potential destinations and did more research. This time, more thoroughly, I was stunned by how much Central Sulawesi has to offer. It‘s in fact the largest province in Sulawesi. As somebody from Sulawesi, I was embarassed for the fact that I’ve never been there, while I’ve been to 90% of the provinces in Sumatera and none of the provinces in Java that I’ve never found myself visiting. “Okay, should I go to Palu and Donggala? Luwuk? Banggai? or Togean Islands?” Oh, just so you know how big Central Sulawesi is, and sadly how poor the public infrastucture in the cities outside Java, going from one interesting place to another may cost you a lot of money and time. So, there’s no way you can go to Luwuk or Banggai and to Togean in one go, unless you’re quite flexible with time and money is not a problem for you. After, more specific research, I finally then decided to go to Togean. Because I was traveling alone, consecutively gathering informations about the place I was about to visit was very important.

A few minutes before departing from Gorontalo.

To reach Togean Islands, first, I had to take a 6 hour car ride from my hometown to Gorontalo, and stayed 1 night in the city. Not only because I wanted to meet my high school friends after a while, but also because the only ferry to Togean will depart at 7 in the morning, meanwhile the travel car from my hometown to Gorontalo is only departing 1 time a day, at 11 in the morning. After, 12 hour ferry ride from Gorontalo, I finally arrived in Wakai, the main gate to Togean Islands, at about 6 in the morning and was greeted by grey skies and comparably low temperatures. Quite unusual for this time of the year and not what I really expected but I was too tired to complain about it. What I did expect though was a memorable getaway, in the province I’ve never been to before.

Togean Islands consist of 56 islands and many offshore islets, situated in the Gulf of Tomini, the largest gulf in Indonesia. My resort was in Kadidiri Island. It took me around 20-30 mins boat ride from Wakai to reach it. As we sailed away from Wakai, the phone signal was gone, completely. I’ve been to the westernmost part of the country, and to some remote places in Nusa Tenggara and Maluku, but I could still manage to get phone signal somehow at those places. I was full aware about how deserted Togean Islands are, but getting no phone signal at all at touristy places in 2020 was just so hard to grasp. Later, I found out the locals insisted to have no BTS tower from any provider, but in Wakai, to let the island life in Togean as pure and natural as possible.

To be honest, my first impression about Togean and its landscape was not as mind blowing as some of the other remote places I’ve been to in this country. And it felt just so far and so isolated that you felt like a little caged in. Maybe, because it also felt so quiet as I was literally the only tourist on the island. My plan was to stay 3 days on the island, and the package came with snorkeling at a few spots, promised me swimming with hundreds of different species of fish and coral reefs, including swimming in the jellyfish lake. Little did I know, apart from the deserted island and the secluded beach, the marine ecosystem of Togean is one of the best in the country.

Never seen coral reefs as wonderful as these.

Another must-do while in Togean Islands is visiting Papan Island where the Bajo people live. The Bajo are so called nomadic seafaring people who were used to live on hand-built boats and travel along the coasts of Indonesia and the Philippines. Some still do so but the people in Papan Island had settled down a while ago. Papan Island literally translates to “the island of wooden planks” is actually a small village consists of a cluster of traditional stilt houses built on water. Similar to Kampong Ayer in Brunei Darussalam, only the houses in Papan Island were built on the sea. As we walked around the village, we encountered a group of children, playing around on the yard, some were playing and swimming in the sea. It was obvious that it has been quite a while since the last time any tourist have paid a visit to the village. We were not greeted joyfully by the locals, as I bet they wouldn’t expect any tourist to come yet. Also, many wooden planks were detached from the construction that connects one house to another.

Watching closely the lives of Bajo people.

When it was finally time to go back to Gorontalo, we stopped by the whale shark sightseeing spot in Desa Botubarani, Kabupaten Bone Bolango. Luckily, there were 4 whale sharks, all female, swimming in the ocean. My mind was completely blown by the time I saw them approaching our boat. Although the water was not very clear, I followed my guide to get off the boat and swim. My high school back then was actually in the same district with this spectacular tourist spot, and I still can’t believe it took me a decade to notice and finally swim with this amazing gigantic creature. I guess, better late than never.

Traveling during pandemic was crazy. Not only because I had to be extra careful to not get exposed to the virus, but also I got to witness myself how the pandemic has left the tourism industries badly affected. I was the first guest to my tour guide after 3 months, and I was the only guest staying at the resort. The resorts next to ours were empty. Meanwhile, in pre-COVID times, these resorts would usually be full-booked and a lot of tourists, most of them were foreigners would just sleep on couches and hammocks. My guide and the owner of the boat that we used for island hopping while in Togean had to find alternatives, like farming and selling clothes to make a living during these difficult times.

One night, the guide told me about a horrific story of a old man from Germany when the COVID-19 just started to wreak havoc in Indonesia. He was battling depression and eventually killed himself because he couldn’t fly back to Germany as most of the airports were closed. My guide was one of the locals that handled his burial in Gorontalo. I browsed for details on the internet related to this unfortunate event, and the news was there. My heart was shattered into pieces.

I know, this is definitely not the best time to travel. But, I would say if you’re healthy and are sure that you can take a good care of yourself while traveling (wear your mask, wash your hands anytime you can, practice social distancing, etc), just do. Travel! Work from there. We’ll never know how long this pandemic will last, and how long those who solely rely on tourism to make their ends meet can survive.

One day when everything is back to normal. Never take things for granted again. Celebrate every little thing while you’re traveling. Be kind to every single person you meet on a journey. Remember to count all your blessings. So, where are we going next? Lombok?

Literally how a deserted island feels like.

Pristine blue water I had been craving for.

The jetty has to be this long, so you can go snorkel without harming the corals.

Passengers being disinfected as they got off the ship.

Binte Bilahuta, my long lost favorite meal from Gorontalo.

Central Sulawesi, checked.

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

Riau: A Short Trip to Appreciate

Who would have thought that 2020 would be this cruel? A series of unfortunate events from the bushfires in Australia, Ukranian plane that being shot in Iran, the volcanic eruptions in the Philippines, the death of Kobe Bryant and his daughter, the earthquake in the Carribean, the floods and mudslides in South America, to the most distressing of all; the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) outbreak that shook the entire world. As of May 1st, 2020, more than 3.25 million cases of COVID-19 have been reported in 187 countries, resulting in more than 233,000 deaths.

If you knew this crisis would come, what’s one thing you wish you did more often? I bet many of us would say, going out. Hanging out with family and friends, with our significant other, going to the cinema, hitting the gym, saying yes more often to people inviting us out, traveling! We realized there are just so many things we tend to take for granted.

It has been almost 2 months since the first case was confirmed to have spread to Indonesia. Some of us have to stay at a small apartment or kos-kosan, and some have to accept the fact that this year Ramadan and Hari Raya will be far from festive, without our family to share it with, some have lost their job. But, still we need to wake up the next morning, hoping this crisis will end soon. We find ourselves doing the new normal; video calling with friends, doing home workout, cooking, binge-watching Netflix series, gaming, TikTok-ing. Though to some extent, doing these things over and over again is quite frustrating that sometimes we think we have reached the highest level of boredom. We raise up again, trying to remember; there are still many things we have to be grateful for. So, instead of asking when will this crisis be over, we now ask ourselves; what little things have we recently learned to appreciate?

For me, it’s an abundance of feelings, and a short trip to the central eastern coast of Sumatera would summarize it all.

DSCF3586 — Arriving at Sultan Syarif Kasim II International Airport.

Riau, another Malay province in Sumatera soil, marked the 24th Indonesia’s province that I have visited. Nothing much to expect to be honest, but that is actually what to expect at all and that is what makes it interesting. After a joyful trip to one of the most-travelled destinations in the world, Japan, where everything was very well-planned and predictable, exciting and very flashy, a trip to a place like Riau seemed to be very much needed. It felt like I just need to go to Riau because I didn’t know what to expect at all. Because I believe one self with no expectation always turns out to be the one who is able to appreciate little things and it shouldn’t take a global pandemic to make us appreciate all the little things around us.

I am so grateful for making to Riau at the beginning of February before the COVID-19 started to wreak havoc. Again, what little things have I recently learned to appreciate?

DSCF4268 2 — I somehow learned to appreciate the different colors of skies.

DSCF4080 2 — The long and winding road trip.

DSCF3987 — The freedom to decide to go wherever I want.

DSCF3727 — The joy of ticking off my wish list.

DSCF4025 — Enjoying such a beautiful scenery.

Created with RNI Films app. Preset 'Kodachrome 50's' — The joy to co-exist.

DSCF3666 — To breathe fresh air without fear and hesitation.

I realize a short trip to the less-traveled route like the one to Riau is a journey to appreciate these little things. To celebrate life.

Riau, checked! ✔️

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

Japan, Part 3: Cities and Contentment

Paul Graham once said in his essay, great cities attract ambitious people. We may sense it when we walk around one. In a hundred subtle ways, the city could send us a message: we could do more or we should try harder. Some other cities may attract different types of people too. It depends on how ambitious or how laid back we are or the aspirations that we all have in life. In contrast to great cities like New York, Cambridge and other big cities Graham mentioned in that essay, cities with less complexity will tell us: we should let loose, or we should chill out more often.

Living in Jakarta for about 5 years long now has taught me a lot about what message a city like Jakarta sends, especially to someone from outside the city like me. The message seems to be; at the end of the day, you can only count on yourself.

This message is so contrast compared to a message Malang—a city not as great as Jakarta, sent to me when I lived there: be smart and be right, yet be kinder. The cities in Bali, as everyone’s favorite destination for holiday, the message seems to be; forget all the things that weigh you down for awhile and have fun! Meanwhile, in Manado, no matter the time of day, the message will always be: live like there’s no tomorrow.

These kind of messages would always be something that I try to capture and understand every time I travel to somewhere new. Even though there might be a huge difference between traveling and living in a city for a lot longer period of time.

Yet, somehow I believe, we can always be able to capture the message a city tries to tell us, by actually being present. As Graham later explained, a city speaks to us mostly by accident. In things we see through a car window, in conversations we overhear on our way from one touristy spot to another. It’s not something we have to seek out, but it’s definitely something we can’t turn off.

Tokyo, Japan’s largest and busiest metropolitan area, tells us, above all: we should really have to work twice as hard, and even if you are just traveling to the city; we should really have to work harder than we did back home. But, when you move 502+ km to the west, the message there is: be funky, be friendly, enjoy life more than the Tokyoites.

The Osakans, unlike the people of Tokyo who are usually cold and obedient, they are a lot more loosen up, funny and chatty, some are crude and uncouth. I noticed all this just by the time I arrived at Osaka Station from Kanazawa. A bunch of friends can be easily found making fun of each other in a public space, while at restaurants, people would talk to each other more and laugh even louder and the way the people dress that is way more eccentric and expressive. Not to mention the flashy signboard of Glico Running Man in Dotonbori, the Shinsekai area with all the neon lights overlooking the weird-looking Tsutenkaku tower, in which I found very… uhm, perplexing.

DSCF33442 — The perplexing Shinsekai overlooking Tsutenkaku Tower.

DSCF27552 — Hoping the Glico Running Man gets the endurance to keep on running.

Moving to Kyoto, 55.6 km to the northeast from Osaka, my most favorite part of the Japan trip. I would describe the city as peculiar and endearing, where most of its people are seen as sophisticated and mysterious. The beautiful landscape with all the centuries-old temples, shrines, and palaces, the bizzare Gion at night, all the way to the scenic bamboo grove of Arashiyama. When you finished exploring the wonderful city of Kyoto, try to refresh your memory with its past history, how the city had evolved from being the center of Japanese political power to becoming Japanese most prominent cultural center, the amazing story about the US Secretary of War and his connection with the city that made him fought to spare the former capital of Japan from wartime bombing during the WWII era. Also, try to learn something new like the story behind the famous Maiko and figure out tons of silly questions that may follow; Why do they look like that? What do they do in their spare time? Do they have family? Is it a desired job? Is it even a job?

DSCF33092 — Gion by night. Isn’t it bewitching?

It wasn’t until me and my friends had to go back to Tokyo for our flight back home later that time that I realized I still couldn’t decode the message Kyoto tried to tell us. Even until the moment I’m writing this blog, I still can hardly capture the message it sends. Maybe, there are cities in this world that don’t send any messages at all. These cities, including Kyoto, casts a magic spell instead.

DSCF3369 — Hatsumōde at the Insta-famous Fushimi Inari Taisha.

DSCF3383 — Mini Torii gate spread out over the hike area.

DSCF3456 — Kyoto as seen from Kiyomizu-dera.

DSCF3335 — Kyoto Tower, the tallest structure in the city.

DSCF28812 — Osaka Castle from the Otemon Gate.

DSCF26942 — The most wonderful time of the year~

DSCF27232 — Packed and vibrant Dotonbori.

DSCF2717 — Queuing for the must-have Osaka’s Takoyaki.

DSCF3346 — Lively Osaka at the end of 2019. You guys know nothing about 2020. :’)

Continue reading “Japan, Part 3: Cities and Contentment”

Japan, Part 2: A Quest for Snow

There’s always a first time for everything. I remember back then in 2017, when I finally travelled to Singapore was my first time going abroad. The amount of excitement was equivalent to a kid getting his first PlayStation. Seriously, I’m not exaggerating. The fact that I could finally get my first stamp in my passport after all those years was just too overwhelming. And you could tell when I finally landed at Changi Airport, I let all the emotions took over and ended up bursting into happy tears (now, probably I am, lol). But yeah, for someone who’s so passionate about travel, there’s nothing more elated and historic than going abroad for the first time. Just stop there for a moment, try to remember your first experience flying abroad… Got my point?

The Japan trip a few months ago was not only my first time to set foot onto Japanese soil, but it was also my first time seeing snow. Winter might stirs up mixed reactions from people. But, for me, it was the lifetime longing that I’ve been dying to experience. I recall the happy moments shopping for the winter outfits, from winter hat to gloves, thermal jacket to heat tech shirts, wondering how it feels like when nature showers snowflakes, holding and playing that fresh snow in my hands. I denied the fact that I might get sick with the freezing temperature.

DSCF1867 — Feeling like I’m in the scene of Harvest Moon.

After having so much fun exploring all the touristy places and embracing the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, me and my friends headed to more serene place where everything got even more interesting. Not only because touring a city as big and populous as Tokyo for 4 days nonstop could be so exhausted, but also the idea of experiencing snowfall in Japan for the first time was second to none.

It wasn’t until I stare at the mounds of snow outside the window from the bus who was taking us from Takayama to our nice hotel in Okuhida that I realized I was so lucky to be able to make my wish come true, just by the end of 2019. To be brutally honest, I didn’t put too much expectation with the trip, I was afraid to. What I tried to focus on was only to set foot in Japan. The snow was a bonus.

Believe me, it felt so surreal. The hills, and the woods are covered with white snow as far as the eye can see, leaving a frosty, magical impression. I thought I would just chill out and didn’t let myself get too little carried away, because it was just the beginning, we were still on the bus and we haven’t even reached the hotel yet. But, I couldn’t help it.

DSCF1108 — A long, winding and frosting road.

The hotel where we stayed in Okuhida, Gifu was just across the main road to Shinhotaka Ropeway. It’s this nice old building that offers us stellar views of the foot of Hida mountains and the flowing river of Hirayu. The room was a traditional ryokan, a type of traditional Japanese room that featured tatami mat and chabudai dining table with a balcony overlooking the main road and the woods. As much as I wanted to stay at ryokan and sleep on a futon, the reason why I couldn’t agree more with my friend who offered the trip to this hotel, I also wanted to experience onsen for the first time, and luckily the hotel facilities include a vast area of indoor and outdoor hot spring baths. So, we didn’t need to go anywhere, really. At dinner time, a large feast was served, me and my friends had food comma and were struck by the delicacy and fineness of the Hida beef.

DSCF1127 — The tranquil *ryokan* retreat.

DSCF1423 — Hida beef that literally melts in your mouth.

A slightly different routine you’ll have when you’re in a country with 4 seasons is that you have to constantly check the weather app on your phone. And when you’re traveling, you can get so irritated if the app says the weather will be rainy, but you also can get super thrilled, if the app says you’ll get multiple chances for snowfall. The next morning, as predicted by the weather app, Gifu was showered with snow. I was completely, blown away.

DSCF1105

It was -1°C, the heavy snowfall excited us in the best, tackiest way possible. We went out to the balcony, we grabbed the snowflakes and put them in our hands, we took so many pictures, way too many, with different poses and angles even though it was freezing outside. You would probably be laughing and looking at us with disgust, but come on, we spent half of our savings to get there. So, please bear with us, lol.

DSCF1683 — Stopping by a bear ranch, near the hotel.

DSCF1689 — Taking a closer look to the Hida mountains.

The quest for snow ended in Shirakawa-gō, the traditional village and one of the most renowned UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in Japan, located in Ōno District, in the same prefecture as Okuhida. Nestled in the Hida mountain range of the Japan Alps, north of Nagoya, Shirakawa-gō is a tiny valley only 8 KM long and 2.8 KM wide, but scattered through its rice fields are more than 150 thatched-roof farmhouses known as gasshō-zukuri, as well as barns and sheds, many of them several hundred years old. Roughly, there are 2,000 people living in Shirakawa-gō, most of them clustered into a handful of communities.

We arrived there by bus after the joyful stay at the hotel in Okuhida and a night transit in Kanazawa. Though the snow in the village has slighty melted, you could still see the beauty of the winter wonderland. It’s almost like a painting. I had to pinch myself for it was a dream come true, not only to play in the snowfall, but most importantly to visit the Japanese fairytale village of Shirakawa-gō.

DSCF2148 — Is this for real? Finally, Shirakawa-gō!

DSCF2323 — A closer look to the gasshō-zukuri.

DSCF2351 — Enter a caption full of blessings here.

DSCF1981 — Coca Cola Hida, Takayama limited edition.

DSCF2040 — The iconic Kanazawa Station’s Tsuzumi-mon Gate.

DSCF2089 — Quick stroll at Omicho Market, Kanazawa before heading to Shirakawa-gō.

DSCF2067 — A long queue for one of the Japan’s highest quality seafoods.

DSCF1835 — *Sampai kita ketemu salju lagi!*

Japan, Part 1: The Unswerving Tokyo

“What’s your New Year’s resolution for 2020?“. Pertanyaan tersebut seolah-olah muncul ketika pikiran saya sedang berkonsentrasi memperhatikan gerak-gerik pramugrari JAL yang sedang bertugas melayani penumpang dengan begitu ramahnya di dalam pesawat Boeing 767 yang bertolak dari Cengkareng menuju Narita malam itu. Pertanyaan tersebut kemudian semakin bergaung di sepanjang langkah kaki ketika turun dari badan pesawat 8 jam setelahnya menuju imigrasi dengan suhu 2° Celcius, hingga terpendar di balik jendela kereta Narita Express yang sedang melaju menuju Tokyo.

“Oh God, I’m finally in Japan!”

Kalau dipikir-pikir lagi, beberapa tahun lalu saya tidak pernah terpikir bisa menginjakkan kaki di Negara Matahari Terbit secepat ini. Saya masih terlalu sibuk memikirkan karir dan keluarga, dan terlalu bersemangat mencari-cari alasan untuk dapat sesegera mungkin ke provinsi-provinsi lain yang belum saya datangi di negeri sendiri. Saya yakin banyak di antara kita yang bermimpi bisa ke Jepang suatu hari nanti karena terinspirasi dari berbagai tayangan, komik, game masa kecil asal Jepang, dan tidak sedikit yang terkagum-kagum mendengar betapa unik dan maju negara itu dari cerita-cerita orang di sekitar kita atau pun dari layar kaca dan internet.

Jepang bukan saja simbol kemajuan dan pembangunan di Timur Jauh, bukan pula bukti bahwa budaya, tradisi dan nilai-nilai luhur bisa dipertahankan di tengah arus modernisasi yang kian tak terbendung dan justru menjadi daya tarik tersendiri bagi para pelancong di seluruh penjuru dunia. Jepang seperti mitos yang menjadi kenyataan. Pesona yang menyihir. Kenangan yang membuatmu terlalu bersyukur untuk bisa membawanya pulang. Statement yang penuh yakin, “saya akan ke sini lagi!”, bahkan sebelum tiba waktunya untuk meninggalkan.

Sesuai dengan ekspektasi, di setiap sudut tempat yang saya datangi akan dipenuhi turis dari berbagai penjuru dunia. Selama berada di Jepang saya secara tidak sengaja dapat mendengar percakapan tidak kurang dari 10 macam bahasa asing; Bahasa Korea, Mandarin, Thai, India, Tagalog, Arab, Jerman, Spanyol, dan tentunya Bahasa Inggris. Dan kalau diperhatikan secara fisik, kita bisa menemui orang dari berbagai ras, you name it, yang juga sedang menikmati perjalanan mereka di Jepang sama seperti kita. I’ve never been to a place, where it seems to be like everyone’s favorite, no matter what language you speak, or what color your skin is.

Hari pertama di Jepang, tepatnya di Tokyo, setelah terlalu sibuk mengidentifikasi kenapa negara ini menjadi favorit bagi semua orang, mulai dari merasakan betapa seamless transportasi publiknya, berjalan-jalan di Shibuya, hingga rela antri dan kehujanan agar bisa mencicipi semangkok ramen yang dibicarakan semua orang; Ichiran, saya bisa langsung mengerti kenapa Jepang bisa seatraktif ini dan kenapa sang ibu kota Tokyo masuk ke daftar kota terbaik dan paling dikunjungi di dunia. Walaupun saya yakin Tokyo yang terlalu urban ini, hanya akan sedikit mewakili ketertarikan saya terhadap Jepang itu sendiri.

DSCF0919 — Tokyo Skytree, the beer, and the golden poo.

DSCF93752 — *“I wonder if you know, how they live in Tokyo*…” Yes, sing it! *wink

DSCF0303 2 — The sky between the concrete façades.

Dengan 13,9 juta penduduk yang mendiami Tokyo dan dengan kenaikan rata-rata 6% jumlah turis yang berkunjung ke Jepang via Tokyo setiap tahunnya, 4 hari di sana, cukup membuat saya yang lebih suka tempat-tempat yang tenang merasa capek. Saya merasa energi saya bisa begitu cepat terkuras di tengah ritme hidup orang-orang di sana yang sangat cepat, belum lagi, kami terkadang harus berdesak-desakan dengan turis-turis lain yang sama excited-nya, yang terlihat sama sekali tidak mau berkompromi entah demi konten di media sosial atau pengalaman liburan akhir tahun yang istimewa.

Meskipun begitu, rasa capek tersebut terasa setimpal dengan keseruan yang menyertainya. Pengalaman mendatangi tempat-tempat baru, apapun poin letdown-nya, harus tetap menjadi pengalaman yang menyenangkan secara utuh. Seperti berkunjung ke DisneySea yang katanya tempat paling berbahagia di dunia untuk pertama kali, menyusuri lorong sempit nan eksotis, Omoide Yokocho di malam hari di tengah sibuknya Shinjuku, sekadar mendapati pohon-pohon dengan daun kering khas musim gugur di dalam perjalanan menuju Toyosu Market, memastikan kalau San Fransokyo benar ada di Odaiba, mencoba berbagai jajanan di Tsukiji yang memanjakan lidah, bernostalgia dengan karakter-karakter manga favorit di Akihabara, dan menemukan kalau ada istilah Kentucky for Chirstmas, di mana outlet-outlet KFC akan dipenuhi antrian di malam Natal, ketika begitu banyak orang-orang Jepang yang masih meneruskan tradisi makan KFC di Hari Natal.

The long queue that happens once a year.

DSCF9384%202.JPG — I remember watching the movie, I wiped my eyes.

DSCF0360 2 — A panoramic view of Rainbow Bridge as seen from Odaiba.

DSCF0370 — Tokyo’s Lady Liberty. San-Fransokyo enough?

Tokyo sangat menguras tenaga, namun rasa lelah bisa saja dengan sekejap hilang hanya dengan datang dan menyaksikan betapa masih banyak orang yang berpasrah diri dan khusyuk berdoa penuh sunyi di Kuil Sensō-ji. Sesibuk-sibuknya Shibuya crossing, se-fashionable apapun Harajuku, se-high end apapun Ginza; tidak peduli semodern dan se-touristy apapun Tokyo secara keseluruhan, akan selalu ada orang-orang yang berpegang teguh pada keyakinan dan tradisi mereka di setiap sudut kotanya; di kuil-kuil, di rumah-rumah, di makanan yang mereka konsumsi sehari-hari, di tutur kata yang mereka ucapkan.

DSCF0876 — Even the wishes of an ant reach to heaven, how would not yours?

Setelah 4 hari menghabiskan waktu di ibu kota, saya dan teman-teman saya bergegas menuju barat laut, dengan satu misi ingin melihat salju untuk pertama kali selama hidup. Pertanyaan yang muncul beberapa hari lalu kembali terngiang-ngiang seiring Shinkansen yang mulai melaju dari Stasiun Tokyo menuju Takayama. Kali ini, sepertinya saya sudah menemukan jawabannya.

DSCF1054 — Don’t let yourself fall asleep, ’cause the scenery out there is breathtaking!

Saya ingin resolusi tahun baru saya sederhana saja. Sesederhana Jepang yang membuat kita semua terpikat. Sesederhana di masa kecil pernah bermimpi ingin ke Jepang dan membiarkan usaha mengabulkannya. Karena semakin dewasa, saya pikir yang menjadikan kita lebih bijak bukan setumpuk resolusi yang dirapalkan menjelang bergantinya tahun. Yang membuat kita semakin bijak adalah berserah pada waktu. Jika dalam 365 hari ke depan tepat setelah tahun berganti, pasti akan ada hal-hal baik dan buruk yang bisa saja terjadi. Yang baik akan mendekatkan atau mengabulkan mimpi, yang buruk akan membuat kita lebih khusyuk lagi bermimpi.

Biarkan tahun 2020 ini menjadi tahun yang tidak dipenuhi ambisi namun syarat akan mimpi-mimpi, entah mimpi yang baru saja kita ciptakan, atau justru yang akan menjadi simbol pencapaian di tahun-tahun berikutnya.

Selamat tahun baru, sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

DSCF0818 2 — I am glad I got the good o-mikuji. 🙂

DSCF0461 — The fish market was relocated to Toyosu, leaving the Tsukiji market a place where tourists can try various Japanese foods and snacks.

DSCF0283 2 — Having my first authentic sushi in Toyosu Fish Market.

DSCF0492 2 — The best mochi I’ve ever had.

DSCF35312 — The insta-famous Tokyu Plaza Omotesando.

DSCF0685 — Even an alley was insta-genic.

DSCF0120 — It was my first time visiting Disney theme park.

DSCF0152 2 — Taking the memories with me.

Maluku: The 23rd Province of Blue

I came across on the internet the other day and found that the most popular color in the world is nothing else but blue. No further explanation related to why is that so, but supposedly because we are living on Planet Earth; the Blue Planet, due to the fact that about 74% of its surface is covered by water. Or simply because blue is a typical heavenly color. Correct me if I’m wrong, but we love to see any part of the Earth tinged with the celestial, cerulean in hue, as of the sky and ocean on a sunny day.

Figuratively speaking, as opposed to blue as one of the visible light rays emitted by the sun, it is a symbol, a state of being to the most transcendent heights of our imagination. As much as we love to be fascinated by the clear blue sky every time we go outside the house, we do also love to contemplate blue. To wonder the mystery it creates just by looking at it. To not only perceive it as what is visible to the eyes, but to also feel it. It is calm, distant and unfathomably cold at the same time. It is melancholic.

Goethe wrote in Theory of Colors, his work to unearth the psychological link between color and emotion.

“Blue color has a peculiar and almost indescribable effect on the eye. As a hue it is powerful — but it is on the negative side, and in its highest purity is, as it were, a stimulating negation. Its appearance, then, is a kind of contradiction between excitement and repose.

Blue gives us an impression of cold, and thus, again, reminds us of shade… Rooms which are hung with pure blue, appear in some degree larger, but at the same time empty and cold.

The appearance of objects seen through a blue glass is gloomy and melancholy.”

dscf7604 — Different place, the same hue.

No wonder when someone says, they are feeling blue, it means that they are feeling sad or poignant. The use of the color blue to mean sadness goes all the way back to the 1300s. Some sources point the reason behind because blue is referring to that of lifelessness, as in blue lips and skin. Some would say because blue is referring to an old naval custom, that of flying blue flags, or painting a blue band along the hull of a ship upon return to its home port if its captain had perished during the last voyage. And some would say because it is referring to rain and storms, reaching even further back, into Greek mythology, where Zeus would make it rain when he was sad.

For me, blue is still a colored spectrum, where it can be very happy and cheery or sad and depressed. And living in tropical, archipelagic country like Indonesia where the weather is mostly sunny and the 70% of the territory is covered with water has always been a happy, summery blue. Yes, it is not too much to say, in Indonesia, blue is relatively the happiest color.

dscf7921 — The world is blue at its edges and in its depths.

I recall a happy childhood memory of me and my family going to Java all the way from North Sulawesi with a ship was my first encounter with a deep, cerulean blue. Growing up, I found myself and perhaps most of the people were fond of the fact that going to the most interesting places in this country would always been a call for blue.

When you are in Banyuwangi, blue is the color of Ijen Carter, blue is the nicest beaches in Bali, and the skies in Sulawesi. Weh Island has a peculiar tinge of Blue as seen from the mainland of Sumatera. Blue was a struggle I’ve always wanted to see when I was in Belitung on a rainy season. Blue is when magic happens as you get on a boat and watch the vast ocean ripples in Labuan Bajo.

There can’t be any better blue, in Ora, Maluku. 🙂

dscf8692 — Blue that disperses among the molecules of the air and scatters in waters.

It will take 3,5 hour of flight from Jakarta to Ambon. But, it would do a whole night if you need to transit in Makassar before setting your feet on one of those few provinces in eastern Indonesia, as me and my friend did. We arrived at 6 AM in the morning in Pattimura airport. The feeling of fulfillment and completeness, when we finally disembarked. I was so pumped up, because I could finally complete the Moluccan chapter, given the fact that the trip might get cancelled because of the numerous aftershocks that have been hitting Ambon since the earthquake on September 26.

I remember in 2017, the first time I set foot on Moluccan soil, Ternate, North Maluku, actually, it was a very beautiful, happy day. I was so impressed by the landscape of Ternate and surrounding islands; its equatorial-mountainous landscape tempered by sea-breezes, surrounded by celestial blue ocean.

Though, it was nothing much like Ternate, infrastructure-wise, Ambon was way more developed. It was a lot more like Manado, it was rambunctious, and I like to describe it as a work in progress.

Our car was taking us directly from the airport to a breakfast by the beach, overlooking the crocodile-like of Baguala Bay. It was my first time trying Ambonese Nasi Kuning, but I’m really sorry, for me, they are not as good as Manadonese Nasi Kuning. 🙂

We then headed to the port of Tulehu, catching a fast passenger ship and leaving for Seram Island.

dscf8389 — En route from Ambon Island to Seram Island.

Processed with RNI Films. Preset 'Technicolor 2 HC' — Contemplating the Banda Sea.

After 1 hour on the road and 2 hour in a ship, we finally arrived at the port of Amahai in Masohi, Central Maluku, Seram Island. In only 3 hours or so in Ambon, I felt like I was nowhere in Indonesia I know by the fact that the predominantly inhabitants are Moluccans in which were Alfurs and Melanesians in origin. I mean, North Maluku was the first province in East Indonesia I visited but, the people there were so diverse and I could barely interact with the Moluccan, Moluccan. In Ambon, it’s different. It’s indeed so, the transition zone between Central Indonesia and East Indonesia.

The port of Amahai was in the southern part of Seram Island, and Ora was in the northern part of it, so we needed another car ride to finally get there. According to the driver who was taking us, it would take another 3 hour to reach Saleman, aaand 10-15 minutes on the boat to the beach where the famous Ora Beach Resort is situated, I paused, taking a deep breath. We went into forest and mountain, thank God, the road was completely paved in asphalt.

Finally, we got our first glimpse of the hills where the resort is located down the forest, near to the beach, the Ora beach. We stopped by to enjoy the breathtaking view and took some pictures. We couldn’t stop stuttering, because the view was second to none, really. We were greeted by 2 men by the time we arrived in small port of Saleman, they helped us carrying our belongings to the boat. From afar, I could see the thatched-roof over-the-sea bungalows lined up I usually saw on the internet. They lie above a crystal clear water, with tropical forest as a background. As we were heading to the resort, we saw a turtle swam past our boat. Oh, what a lovely day it was.

The veranda of the over-the-sea bungalow, where we stayed, is really lovely. It’s furnished with a nice sun lounger where you can just sit and enjoy the sea view and the mountains surrounding. Not to mention the blues and greens of the water, the corals, and abundant fishes with different shapes and colors below. Suddenly we forget, what a long tiring journey it was to get here. The guests were only me and my friend, and a group of six middle-aged women from Jakarta, so it was pretty much serene, and peaceful. It was the destination I’ve been in dire need of.

dscf7471 — A small port in Saleman, the gate to Ora.

dscf8320 — Finally, Ora. The gem of Central Maluku.

dscf8346 — Magical view to the over-the-sea bungalows.

The resort restaurant is also right over the sea, the management serves breakfast, afternoon snack and dinner, and sell different types of drinks. Otherwise, it would be too much of a hassle, if you have to leave the resort to find something to eat or drink.

The next day, we did a day boat excursion to Tebing Batu, Goa Laut and Mata Air Belanda. My favorite was in Goa Laut where you have to dive for a few seconds to get yourself inside a cave with the cerulean sea beneath you. It was pretty amazing!

dscf7946 — Couldn’t resist to get myself soaked in the crystal clear water.

In the afternoon, there would be heavy rain. It strangely became livelier – try to contemplate and watch the downpour while eating your banana fritters and sipping a cup of tea, before you go for a perfect nap I suppose. When the rain was over and the sky became clear again, though there was no sunset, me and my friend would sit on the jetty, listening to a song, and watch the color of the sky slowly changed from dark purple to deep blue.

I’ve been to almost every corner of the archipelago, but one thing I know for sure, I would never get bored with these celestial colors of blue.

Back to the capital, after 3 day and 2 night stay in Ora. We headed back to get ourselves immersed into how it feels like to live in the heart of Maluku; Ambon. It must be very heart-wrenching to recall the memories of Maluku sectarian conflict in 1999, and it’s must be also not easy for the people of Maluku to finally get completely healed up. I was trying to trace the marks of the unfortunate tragedy that had claimed thousands of lives by asking the driver, where were you when the conflict was happening? Then I realized it was a silly question. It’s not like the Tsunami in Aceh, it wasn’t something like a natural disaster where nothing much could have been done. He could be involved and perhaps, he could still feel the pain and remorse as it was something he has been trying hard to forget. The driver didn’t budge and we moved on.

dscf8819 — A view from Merah Putih bridge.

Ambon, City of Music, a new nickname for the city, though it was so well-known for Ambon Manise. Not only because of the fact there are many famous singers/musicians in Jakarta and in the world who were either born in Ambon or of Ambonese descent, but perhaps it can also be way to restore peace as music is often dubbed as a universal language of friendship.

Just when the night fell, we stopped by a coffee shop in the downtown where we enjoyed a live music while savoring a wide range of Ambonese snacks and fritters. This lovely ma’am who happened to be the singer came to our table during a short break. We exchanged stories, and by the time she stood up, wanting to go on a show again, I asked her politely to sing my all-time favorite Ambonese song for me, and she did. I could directly tell the real face of Maluku; just like any other places I’ve been to in Indonesia, it was both warmth and fun; like the color blue.

Maluku, checked. ✔

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

dscf8388-1 — Fisherman and his kids at the port of Amahai.

dscf8438-1 — A nice restaurant just a few miles away from our hotel.

dscf8964 — At the most famous coffee shop in Ambon where we met this beautiful lady. Thanks for singing the song!

dscf8757 — Martha Chrstina Tiahahu statue. One of the few Indonesian heroines.

f87f5642-003c-40c6-8608-a9416ca21cbb-1004-000000a79c2bac16 — You can’t miss their most popular seafood.

dscf8853 — Because, it’s a City of Music. 🙂

dscf8845 — Nationalism in the eastern part of the country.

dscf8377 — Don’t get surprised, in Maluku, your warteg meal is being charged for service tax. 🙂

dscf8491 — Pintu Kota, literally translates to City Door. A fine tourism spot in Nusaniwe, 45 mins drive from the downtown.

e1bcf233-9aa1-4a21-887e-9664856362a4-1004-000000a74cc4e827 — Enjoying the warmth.

04086880-5119-444f-9e7f-8d132bf72f9a-1004-000000a7c7c30447 — The iconic bridge that spans over Ambon Bay. Claimed to be the longest bridge in Eastern Indonesia.

dscf7629 — Best part, waking up to this breathtaking landscape.

dscf7565 — Mouthwatering, welcome meals, just over the sea.

dscf8361 — Signing off the exquisite beauty.