Falling for the Understated Charm and Distinctive Beauty of West Nusa Tenggara

To the east of Lesser Sunda Islands, the coast of West Nusa Tenggara seems to stretch to infinity. While the whole province boasts over 2,333 KM of coastline, you might start to think that the shore contains the entirety of that figure. The pristine wilderness there scattered with mountains and hills, long stretches of white sand beaches, an abundance of nature trails, and traditional villages, gives an impression of endlessness. Much like its neighboring provinces; East Nusa Tenggara and Bali, West Nusa Tenggara has very beautiful scenery only with the influence of Islam. Yet, due to the geographical proximity of the three provinces, the charm of West Nusa Tenggara is often times being overshadowed and understated.

To infinite beauty and beyond.

Off to the northwest of Lombok island, an archipelago of three small islands or so called the Gili island triplets is one of the most popular destinations of the province. Gili Trawangan, the farthest island of the three and the closest to Bali, is often packed with more tourists. Many are fond of the idea of quieter and more secluded island than Bali yet still maintaining the tropical island life and the good summer vibe. It’s the perfect place for snorkeling/diving, relaxing and enjoying the beach, hanging out at the bars, partying all night. But, not exactly when I came to the island a few months back.

Like many tourist destinations in the country, the pandemic hits the island very hard. Many shops and restaurants were closed due to significant decrease in tourist traffic. Locals were forced to find another job like farming and fishing, even some had to leave the island and move to the city. And again, I found myself as the only guest at the hotel. The situation has been very concerning indeed, but I didn’t know how to feel exactly since that was my first time in the province. I had no expectations.

Love at the first sight.
Sunny and breezy.

I spent a night in Gili Trawangan at this very nice hotel, LUMI, locatded on the west coast of the island. The hotel provides seaside cabin and cottage, meticulously designed on the premise of green lifestyle. It extends the concept of green tourism in Gili Trawangan that I liked about the most.

Many people would argue, going to Gili Trawangan during pandemic is not a good idea. Yes, I might missed the opportunity to experience little Bali with its fun nightlife, yet I was even more interested with the tranquility and calmness the island had to offer me when it’s losing most of its tourist. I was more intrigued to be able to have a heart-to-heart with the locals and listen to their stories about preseverance during this hard time. I was more grateful to have the opportunity to enjoy the island’s beauty, from the land and the sea, in quieter and more alluring kind of way.

Empty Gili.
Imagine calmness and tranquility like this.
Marveling at my thatched roof cottage.

On the mainland of Lombok, I chose to stay at the hotel on hight street of Senggigi. At the front, the popular Senggigi beach, stretched out along several kilometers to the north of the capital, Mataram. The area used to be the main tourist attraction on the island before Kuta Lombok and Gili Islands gain their popularity.

Two nights staying in Lombok gave me clearer understanding why West Nusa Tenggara has often hyped to be called the next Bali while one can comfortably compare it with Komodo Island and Sumba of the East Nusa Tenggara. However, I’m full confident that my experience of riding from Senggigi to Kuta and surroundings, letting myself be immersed in the beautiful spectacle during the journey was nowhere else to be found. The sun was scorching hot by the time I crossed the sea to the mainland of Lombok before it began to rain very heavily as I rode halfway to Mataram. I stopped at a small grocery store on the side of the road and bought a bottle of water. The owner warmly let me sit on the front of the store so I could take as much time as I need before continuing my journey.

Wonderful Senggigi.
Before the pouring rain.

Chasing sunset in Bukit Merese was high on my list of things to do while in Lombok and I was very lucky that I could reach that place right before the sun was down at that day as it took me almost 2 hour drive from Senggigi to get there. As I began to walk on top of the hill, I saw several groups of people gathered around, talking, enjoying the view and taking pictures, some were being approached by Lombok traditional woven fabric sellers, some were playing with wild dogs. The hill offered fantastic coastal views. Around every corner and over every peak I found stunning beaches and turquoise-colored reefs. The sunset was just perfect. Suddenly, a girl around my age who later told me that she was also from Jakarta, approached me nicely, and asked to take a picture with me. She was also on her solo trip and she wanted me to pretend to be her date or something on the picture, so it won’t be too sad for her if her friends happen to know the details about her trip to Lombok. At least, there was this guy accompanying her. Well, that’s what makes it sad. I giggled on the inside.

Amazing sunset in Bukit Merese.

Touring the Sasak village, Sade was even more fun. The tour began with a guide explaining the history about Sasak people and their traditions. Then I stumbled upon a house, a women around 100-year old sitting and selling me an ethnic piece of Lombok. She spoke in a language I couldn’t understand. And then there is this “love tree” in the village, a landmark where couples will meet at night before they try to elope, in which later I found that elope with someone was part of traditional wedding custom back then in Lombok.

Walking down the alley.

Walking down the beach with buffalos in Selong Belanak beach was something I didn’t expect to be the most delightful highlight of my Lombok trip. I mean, where else can you find a group of buffalos crossing a beach in Indonesia? The beach has two diferrent types of wave. The west side beach has big waves and is ideal for surfing. Meanwhile, the beach on the other part has relatively calm waves because it’s surrounded by a bay and much suiatable for family tourism.

The Insta-worthy Buffalo crossing.

These all I believe were blessings I couldn’t find in any other place on top of my Gili experience.

Be it then, now during pandemic or some time yet to come, no matter how much more developed Bali and East Nusa Tenggara as tourist destination are going to be; West Nusa Tenggara, is most assuredly and will always be a timeless, distinctive beauty.

West Nusa Tenggara, checked!

Sampai kita ke mana-mana lagi!

Exploring Kuta Mandalika.
She’s the star of the village. Hands down.
Another picturesque beach in Lombok.
An incredible view of Selong Belanak beach.
Woofing friends.
A view from my hotel in Lombok.
Gili’s underwater.
The renowned Gili Meno’s underwater statues.
Swimming with sea turtle.
Coconut trees of Senggigi.
Understated charm, indeed.

Published by ciptadimana

Constantly torn between museums and Mother Nature, between traditions and pop culture, spooning and adventure.

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